Posts Tagged "Modelling"

We are on the final run to finishing the Macharius Salvation repair, just some filling and surface work to do.

First up we take a look at the exhausts on the back of the Macharius ..

As you can see not a good fit at all, not to mention irregularly cut. I considered using a hair dryer to bend the pipes for a better fit, but was worried the curve would end up looking wrong/compressed if I did.

I decided finally to use procreate to rebuild the point of contact for the pipe as you can see below at point C. Only one done so far, but the other one is scheduled for tonight, on an interesting note often with green stuff / procreate it is better to let things which are near to another harden and dry first in case of accidental damage on finished work when working on the second item.

As you can see above at point A the track replacement is in place, I had to fill an enormous bubble hole in the resin below and let it harden. One fitted I added 1.5mm plastic rod to make the track joint, now it is all dry I have to fill the small gaps between the track and the white rod to make it accurate.

Point B. shows more filling for the cracked corners. Because of the size of this hole I had to create an initial filling, recessed from the surface slightly in all directions, which will harden and act as a base for the final smooth coat.

As you can see the rear of the vehicle rapidly approaches completion, I for one will be glad when the “filling” is complete.

Moving to the front we can address the front “joint” for want of a better description. The joint/fit was terrible as you can below, this one was/is hard to hide.

You can see in the bottom of the picture, the gap that needed concealing. First I tried to remove the bar to tidy it all up, that was not going to happen, it was well and truly glued into place. None of the support struts on the bar even touched the tank at any point either. I finally decided to employ a physical trompe l’oeil technique to fool the observer, using a square strip of plasticard to create a much straighter line which the eye would latch onto instead of the irregular drifting line it concealed, basically misdirection. It would not be perfect, there was just too much movement, however it would look better than the previous joint. Once the plasticard was in place I filled in behind the struts (see point A) so they all looked like they joined on to the hull correctly, I then subtly used a scalpel to make them all look roughly the same depth by re-cutting the front on the protrusive ones (once again a depth illusion). All that remains is some minor filling work around the new strip to finalise.

Now we move back towards the middle.

I replaced the damage hatch and tidied up some at point A, there was lots of spilled super glue. The edge of the viewport at point B was damaged and chipped off, so I cut it back a little to clean up and then sculpted it back using procreate. Finally there was a long edge where the cover for the stubbers didn’t meet the hull which I filled and smoothed. There is a small amount of filling to do, but not much :)

To give you a more cohesive view here is the current work in progress shot, it almost looks finished :)

Notice how the plasticard strip at the front makes the straight line illusion work!

I am pleased with the way its looking now, but I am want to get it off my desk to make way for the next sub project!

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Busy weekend … got quite a lot done on the Macharius Salvation sub-project.

To start with I repaired the storage bins at the back of the turret. The original strip around the bottom was damaged so I removed it, I tidied up the damaged three supports by removing them and generally sanded down the damage areas to a clean surface. I then measured the remaining supports and reproduced three them using plasticard.

It is important to note that these models were mainly constructed out of plasticard to begin with, therefore reproducing them should just be a matter of measuring the thickness of card used and then cutting to the appropriate size. Below you can see me starting to glue into place the replacement supports, I tend to use self locking tweezers for the job. They hold the item so all I need to do is place the item (with the glue of course). I tend to find normal tweezers where I need to apply pressure to hold the item start to shake slightly at precisely the wrong moment.

Also you can see the finished supports in place, this other half of the image shows the damage to the “edge” of the box we will cover with plasticard “angle” strip. In addition you should be able to see two damaged brackets on the large face, the hidden face also has a damaged bracket.

We skip forward in time for about three hours and can see the final results of our work. The points of interest are labelled: -

A - A tarpaulin was added from the normal Tank upgrade sprue, I decided to do this as it adds some extra detail to the model, making it seem more life like/used, it also conveniently hid the damaged surface nicely. Sometimes there IS an easy way out! One small point of added detail in the magnified section was the removal of the “solid” part under the curl of the fabric. The plastic moulding process demands that no overhangs / obstructions can occur, therefore they “fill” these little areas with plastic. By removing the plastic carefully with a scalpel / hobby knife we can increase our level of realistic detail, these things are hard to see, sometimes almost imperceptible but they can make a difference.

B - The banding on the lower edge of the storage bin was replaced and extra rivets added. Note the triangular arrangement of the rivets at the corners, I decided to use this arrangement as it was the standard used on other parts of the tank. Often when repairing or modifying a vehicle it is important to achieve a sympathetic or similar style to “fit” in and not look out of place, something that ruins a lot of excellent work done by beginners without them realising it.

C - The struts we covered above, however please not they appear very slightly thicker than the originals. This is almost always caused by shrinkage at the moulding stage, if a master model is not kept and used for the mould, then often first run duplicates are. These duplicates are themselves slightly smaller, when they are used for making a replacement for an old / work out mould the size once again decreases. If you do mould your own work at any time, always remember to keep the original and try not to destroy it in the moulding process, I keep boxes of my originals safely stored away incase I get mould failure.

Tracks are often a pain on resin vehicles and as I am sure you remember from the early photos we had an almost completely missing track at the back. I needed to replace this track with something, so I set about making a new one from plasticard as you can see below. Once again measuring a normal track piece gave me all the dimensions I required and about an hour later I had the replacement made as you can see. A cut up chimera (more on that sub-project later) supplied the rivets and all the rest came from my store of plasticard. If you plan to do any serious modelling with tanks / vehicles, I can only suggest you invest in a broad selection of plasticard strip, tube, sheet etc from Evergreen and/or Plastruct, you will NOT regret it.

I was pleased with the replacement track and have not put it into place yet as I might actually mould it, still have not decided yet.

Luckily the end of the damaged track was used to replace one that had been sheared away at the front of the tank, waste not!  It still needs a little filing, to smooth the procreate used to join / support it, but I wanted to get this post done at the end of the weekend and not waste time filing till tomorrow.

Trying to keep the same “turret” theme I planned for the Leman Russ turrets, I took the cut up turret from the demolisher and carefully cut away the filtration systems from the side and top. These two pieces were then added to pretty much the only clear space on the Macharius turret. The first picture shows the side mounted component already stuck into place and you cannot see underneath it where it has two plasticard struts for support.

I then ran / shaped two small ribbed cables (from Dragonforge) from the side mounted component, up and over onto the nearest clear space on the top. Support brackets / ties made from plasticard were added with bolts for realism / detail and I must remember to get some photo-etch brass strip which would have been much easier.

Finally I added the top mounted component for the filtration and drilled it to receive the ends of the two ribbed cables. Once glued into place (both cables and component) I proceeded to use procreate to create “covers” for where the cables joined the components.  Once again I used procreate not because of preference over green stuff, but because it was already grey in colour and I preferred that.

Lastly we move onto the finished sponson with heavy bolter.

Here we can see the cuts and nicks of the sponson on the left hand side, have been repaired with procreate, which I also used to fill the gap between sponson and vehicle. When the not cylindrical turret is added the finished result finally comes together nicely, overall a lot of work, but it makes such a difference compared to our original greenstuff packed version.

With the turret finished and the sponson .. we are focused on the tracks and the leading edge of the Macharius. The LRIWS sub-project is on hold at the moment as we await the delivery from forgeworld (currently marked as dispatched on friday, thanks FW).

I am anticipating another 5 hours work to finish the modelling phase of the Macharius Salvation, then she gets put aside for a while as we move onto the Airbrush and Oil Wash work. I want to practice on a dead old Leman Russ to get the finish I want right before committing it onto the Macharius, as with all things it is better to practice on something you don’t care about first before ruining hours of work on a great model.

Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday I will be working up at the British Museum in London. I am hoping to get enough time to finish the Macharius though :)

@ Inquisitor NicolePyykkonen : I hope my work is inspirational, I try and make my thought process clear and give the detail required for others to follow it.  I definitely hope I it is NOT humiliating, we all have different degree’s of experience and as you said I hope you can and will learn from wherever you can :)

@ Max_Dammit : They are still running in Mexico, but I cannot seem to find a supplier!

@ StrayCatt : I tend to find I can get a reasonable edge onto procreate and it will sand ok. I used to use milliput but stopped as I found I didn’t like the texture / way it was worked (most probably a personal thing I suspect), I should get some and give it another try.

@ Orkdung : Lets hope I can get a good chunk of it done :)

@ Isiah : Its just practice … I am confident you could easily reproduce it with time!

@ DasPanzerIstUber : You do not know home many times this project has made me feel depressed / not good enough. Enjoy the Cadians, they are cool looking and have tons of good addons from Forgeworld!.

Leman Russ Integrated Weapon System : LRIWS - Continued

Below you can see the collection of most of the variants

The demolisher for some unknown reason was cast as a solid part of the turret by forgeworld. As you can see at the bottom of the picture below I needed to cut the end of the turret off and work away at the resin till I had the cannon separated and tidied off. I need to build a small plasticard plate to sit on top of the gun when it is fitted to the modified Ryza turret.

In the same image you can see the Punisher Gun in place. I must say I was pleased with the look, I think it looked good with the different turret :)

Using the same gun mantlet component we can also fit the Plasma gun to the turret. This finally gave me the chance to comparison the Forgeworld Plasma gun with the GW one in the same turret.

I think I prefer the GW one to the Forgeworld turret, given its similarity to larger weapons on Titans and Super heavies. What do you think?

Lastly I cut down the FW conqueror gun and used it as the base of the GW Nova Cannon. I found the inside of the GW cannon had a 6mm diameter space which could take the appropriate sized plasticard tube. I drilled a similar size hole into the resin of the FW gun “base” and slid the tube into both parts. Once I checked fit and ensured everything lined up correctly I took the picture below. Looking closely at the picture, I think a plasticard collar should be fitted to the point where both items join, with rivets on it, to match the FW style.

All that now remains is to order a new Conqueror cannon and the forgotten normal Battle Cannon from Forgeworld.

Well that is my second project started. I have also done some work on the Macharius and will hopefully have some pictures to show progress for the weekend.

Leman Russ Integrated Weapon System : LRIWS for short.

I have always enjoyed modelling as much as I have done wargaming. As a modeller, my aim is to make a pleasing and often historically acurate model to the best of my abilitiy. The bit I enjoy about mixing that with wargaming is that you have multiple potential options with most vehicles. Like most “Magnet Boyz” I love magnetising my models and vehicles to enable them to have multiple tactical uses, different weapons, options etc. Well with so many potential variants of the Leman Russ, it becomes a bit of a challenging conundrum!

It breaks down into numerous subsets …

1. Sponsons or Not  - Weapons variants (Heavy Bolter, Heavy Flamer, Melta or Plasma)

3. Forward Mount Weapons variants (Heavy Bolter, Heavy Flamer, Las Cannon)

4. Pintle Mounted Weapon or Not - Weapons variants (Storm Bolter, Heavy Stubber)

4. Camo Netting or Not

5. Extra Armour or Not

6. Dozer Blade or Not

7. Hunter Killer Missile or Not

8. Turrent Mounted Weapon Variants (Battle Cannon, Exterminator Autocannon, Vanquisher Battle Cannon, Eradicator Nova Cannon, Demolisher Siege Cannon, Punisher Gatling Cannon, Executioner Plasma Cannon, Annihilator Las Cannons,  Conqueror Battle Cannon)

9. Named Crew (Knight Commander Pask & the Forgeworld named variants)

As you can see its quite interesting to try and to build a single Leman Russ which can accommodate all potential variants. But hey … why should it being hard stop us from doing it …

Initially we are going to tackle the Turret Mounted Weapon Ssystems as per LRIWS mentioned above. To make things slightly more complex I really REALLY like the Modified Ryza Pattern Turret from Forgeworld .. As seen in the picture below.

Well last time I was working on my Steel Legion I collected almost all the variant turrets from Forgeworld. But if you were following from before you know I sometimes throw money at my solutions!

I somehow strangely had not got the Battle Cannon variant (doh) … and obviously I needed a solution for the Eradicator Nova Cannon & Punisher Gatling Cannon (both came with the 2010 Leman Russ which I did not have).

Well after a trip down to my local GW (Croydon), I became the proud possessor of a brand new 2010 Leman Russ Box!  The Eradicator Nova Cannon would take a little bit of work, mainly obtaining the FW conqueror turret again and fitting the two together (the barrel size was closest of all those I checked). The Punisher however was going to take some work, it had a wide gun mantlet and a cunning fitting system to make it work. While I was also looking at the Punisher, I could not help but notice the Plasma cannon GW had included in the Demolisher Box. Wow, it was so much cooler than the Forgeworld variant, and best of all matched the look of the super heavy vehicles that FW did too.

So the problem then became one of making a gun mantlet that would enable me to mount a Plastic Plasma Cannon & Punisher Gatling Gun into the same turret. As the pieces were basically compatible with each other I needed to create some kind of cut down mantlet that fitted the same space as that used by Forgeworld on the modified Leman Russ turret, therefore giving me the weapon swap out capability I sought.

Here is my succesful attempt, yes there was a failed version (curse you Forgeworld) but more on that later.

First off I duplicated the original fitting in a scrap mould (a mixture of other small one or two off parts needing casting but not needing to be cast many times) which would be cut up into small pieces and used in other moulds as filler. I then cut the moulded gun mantlet down so that it was the width of the Modified Ryza pattern Leman Russ Turret. Then I proceeded to make a surround out of plasticard that looked similar to the ones made by FW. This is where the first variant bit the dust, if you take a careful look at the picture of the second attempt, you will see that the “back” is not square with the front (as shown by the greenstuff “shim/wedge”). The first attempt was perfectly square, naively assuming that forgeworld had made the gun hole “square”. Uh-huh … it wasn’t square on the first turret I checked, nor the fourth … Which is where I started checking the guns themselves, they were not “square” either. Hence the second version that matches the “irregular” fit of the gun hole :)

Once this was right I merely needed to test for fit and trim the plastic parts.

More in the following post .. The trials of the Demolisher Cannon, ordering yet more Forgeworld, did the Punisher work? …

Monday morning and I spent the weekend relaxing and thinking about what sub-projects are part of this lumbering behemoth that is this log.

The next few posts will show the key sub-projects and give a description of what I want to do with them.

So, in no particular order of importance.

1. The Macharius Salvation

Some time ago a fellow gamer contacted me regarding a forge world purchase that had gone badly wrong for him. Even though he was an good modeller I think he had given up on this purchase as a bad deal and he wondered if I would like the vehicle in question. We decided on a price and I eagerly awaited the arrival of a Macharius Heavy Tank with Vulcan Mega-bolter.

When it arrived I could understand why the gentleman in question had most probably wanted to sell it on.

Some parts had arrived broken from Forgeworld orginally and in a moment of enthusiasm the original owner had decided he could model his way around the problems. One of the original sponson guns was missing its cylindrical housing and an attempt was made to use Green Stuff to replace it.

Tracks were broken and the result was “Hidden”

Super glue and green stuff were generously applied around the model (with added fingerprints)

and finally .. as is often the case with Resin models the fit was poor.

These are possibly the worst aspects of the vehicle, however just generally there is a lot of excess superglue and poor fitting around the entire model.

“The Macharius Salvation” will be the recovery of this vehicle from its poor current state into something I could use on the battlefield. Initially it will be focused around filing down the excess superglue, filling in the cracks and gaps where possible and recreating the missing sponson cylinder from scratch.

Once that is done I will then try and add some new features and upgrades to the model before giving it the distinctive Steel Legion camouflage pattern!

It is a shame for such a lovely forge world model to go waste .. so its a unique “fixer upper” opportunity.

The next project I will be posting about later on today is codenamed “LRIWS” … Any guesses as to what that stands for ?

Some progress on Venator Faisal, my first Hunter of Sirius:

Basecoat all over, a quick Badab Black wash and some highlights everywhere except the left arm which is basecoated only.

The P3 paints are proving a little awkward to work with, or perhaps just different to my usual GW/Vallejo paints. They go on smoothly, consistently and with reasonable, if not great, coverage, all perfectly acceptable until at some magic instant the dreaded chalkiness appears mid stroke.

I’m thinning the paints with my usual retarder/flow aid/acrylic medium mix and it works fine fresh from the pallette but I have to work very quickly and wash the brush out much more often compared to other paint brands to avoid chalkiness. As you can probably see from the mini that’s making Faisal here look a little low rent and making highlighting my usual way (lots and lots of slightly lighter layers covering progressively smaller areas) a little tricky to pull off with consistency.

Still, I like the colour scheme, the grey-green and bone works nicely and the leather is OK, a little rich maybe, I’ll try to leach a little life from it with some washing and shading I think. Altogether I think it’s quite a suitable scheme for the Astartes.

But the real question is what colour the sword should be, I like the red pistol, I’m keeping that but I based the front of the sword purple on a whim and I’m not so sure it works. I had planned to try out the old ‘lightning’ effect on the purple to indicate the power-swordiness of it but the alternative might be a deeper, richer and glossier purple to try and achieve a crystalline effect.

Some progress on the Exorcist:

Just the details left, plasma coils, a final highlight for the jump pack and the details on there (purity seals etc.) also need doing. The servo-skull also needs a highlight or two.

OK, so it won’t win a Golden Daemon, even here in Australia,  but I think it’ll end up a few steps above table top and I’ve learnt from painting it so I’ll finish it, take some decent photos and move on…

To this guy:

Not much to see, a couple of licks of Privateer P3 Bastion Grey and a slathering of Badab Black wash and that’s it so far. Doesn’t seem anywhere near as brown as the hex code I found for P3 Bastion Grey does on the Space Marine Painter image in the previous blog…

Supply Drop!



Another day, another post, I think I might finally be getting the hang of this blogging business!

Nothing major today, I ducked into town on an extended lunch break today to grab some supplies, you can see today’s goodies below together with an up to the minute pic of JO-D:

On the left is one of the P3 pseudo-sable synthetic brushes that’ve been around for awhile that I’ve had an itch to try out. I’ve used synthetic brushes forever and a day, Taklon is a good friend of mine, but Brother Argos swears by W&N’s 7 series brushes and on his urging I picked one up ages ago and never really got around to trying it out until this week. Long story short, despite the near mythical status of the 7 series I didn’t enjoy the transition from Taklon to sable at all and I’m hoping the P3 brush will help ease me across the border in the coming months. We’ll see…

Top right is JO-D, fully assembled and with some green stuff gap filling done. The join at the rear torso is abominable, there’s a difference of 2 or 3mm in thickness between the end of the fuselage and start of the tail assembly. As a result they look awfully mismatched and I’ve been trying to minimise the difference with some GS bodging.

In the end JO-D’s maintenance flaws may switch from cracks in the rudder to the loss of the entire tail unit as a result. It was an actual problem for early models of the Hawker Typhoon in WW2 actually, the whole tail section would come away under stress and occasionally even under normal loads due to structural issues and poor quality joins and glues so it’s not unbelievable poor maintenance could cause such issues here.

Below JO-D is some GF9 ‘concrete’ I picked up on a whim. The container has a nice mix of fine ‘dust’, slivers, chips, lumps, bricks and giant lumps of ‘concrete’. The broken areas have a nice texture too, though the intact bits are maybe  a tad smooth.

Finally we’ve got some Testors Dull Cote, I love this stuff but damn it’s hard to find sometimes! And alongside it are some P3 paints that I think might work well as the base colours for JO-D’s camouflage pattern. Is P3 the old Citadel paint line? Or is that Cote D’arms? Or someone else. Either way, it’s a nice grey-green and a muddy brown I’m looking forward to testing out…

And finally, I picked up the Series 7 this evening for one last try:

As usual I hate highlighting black and getting the back pack to stay on was a complete pain in the fundament. I also stuck the servo-skull back to the base so this guy is finished modelling-wise, now to knock over the painting details…

And I also picked up the new Black Library book ‘Emperor’s Mercy‘. I’m digging the new style of cover, the embossed silver title looks great. I’m intrigued by the ‘A Bastion Wars Novel’ tacked on the front too.

I’ll let you know if it’s any good soon…

Marauder ‘JO-D’


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So I’ve been thinking about my somewhat bodgy Marauder Destroyer mini. Some folks reckoned I should call FW and ask for replacement parts and I though about it, a lot, and eventually decided I couldn’t complain about a model I’d bought in January 2007 (I checked the receipt and damned if it isn’t 2.5 years!), I just don’t have that much chutzpah. I tried a few things to fix the thin patches and the wobbly bits and so forth but wasn’t really happy with the results. So I stripped everything back to bare resin and had a think about it.

And inspiration struck a few hours ago, I was thinking about Marauder ‘JO-D’ which I’ve mentioned in some of the 609th’s growing history and a light bulb appeared above my head. Why not make this not-so swish Destroyer JO-D? Nothing I’ve written precludes it that I can recall and I can always ret-con anything that does, right?

So below are some pics of an even more battered Marauder mini than FW sent me. In game it can either serve as a characterful mini or as an objective so that’s a bonus too.

The flak hole was created by the simple expedient of pressing gently on the razor thin resin area with a scultping tool. It’s quite  a nice irregular shape actually, it looks quite good. The damaged area near the port intakes/vents was just as thin but broke more regularly. You can also see a lot of the gaps that need filling from this angle.

Here I took the more regular broken resin near the intakes and used a good old fashioned pin vice to drill some holes representing small calibre cannon-fire. As a result of this damage JO-D has lost hydraulic pressure on the starboard side causing the undercarriage skid on this side only to drop free.

Flak damage = paper thin resin once more sadly. Or maybe it should be vice-versa?

Sadly difficult to see even after I played with contrast/brightness is the poor join where I had to glue the rudder back together after I accidentally snapped it while putting the rest of the tail together. I blame poor FW quality control rather than clumsiness for the damage on this occasion. I think this crack will stand out nicely when she’s painted and if not I’ll ink/paint/weathering powder the area so it does.

This last damage will be the crux of the matter in the loss of JO-D, for Marauders of all stripes are incredibly tough and this kind of damage wouldn’t down one. Those cracks in the rudder however would turn out to fatal and when the wreck was examined would turn out to be due to lack of maintenance. This lack would be traced to Wertheimer and his cronies and lead the their eventual arrests.


And for those of you with wives/girlfriends/significant others out there, do you get this kind of reaction from your family?

I was doing my research on the IN the other day when my lovely lady wife walked into the study to find me carefully marking up a 40K novel like it was one of my university texts. She smirked, sniggered, patted me on the head and walked out of the room shaking her head and fighting a grin. I’m pretty sure I heard howls of laughter from the other end of the house shortly after…

I love ForgeWorld, I have for a long time and I’m not ashamed to admit it. I’ve got buckets of FW stuff in the drawer next to my knee as I type this very entry. I’ve got Red Scorpions, Elysians, the magnificent Rhino Damocles Command Vehicle that I can’t bring myself to assemble for fear of ruining it with an inadequate paintjob and lots lots more. I also think that the Imperial Armour books are better than most of the stuff GW has put out recently and that they rival the BL campaign books in many ways in terms of the pure fluff enjoyment I derive from them.

But…but, they frequently fail to live up to my expectations given what I pay for their product. The art in their books is too reliant on Photoshopping the same models again and again (and I acknowledge I’ve done that for this blog already, difference is I’m not selling this to anyone nor do I have an art department behind me to diversify my image catalogue). And the models, well, get a nice early production piece and they’re tremendous, the detail is spot on, there’s hardly any warping and in general they’re everything you could hope for. Get a bad batch or a late production cast and all bets are off though.

Like my Marauder Destroyer, which was bought years ago when it first came out, in fact, I think I ordered it within a fortnight or so of release, so there’s not even the excuse of it being from the end run of a mold.

1. Complete Marauder Destroyer Model:

2. One of several razor thin areas that will need repair/strengthening prior to assembly and painting. Advice gratefully received on this work - greenstuff, plasticard, thick CA glue spread across the exisiting areas, some sort of wall putty?

3. Tailplane section: note warped rudder (which is also cracked, the section where it joins the fuselage is only joined on the rear 1/3rd or so) and warped stabiliser (right hand side of photo).

4. Hellstrike missiles. I think. There are a total of 12 of these with my kit, some have what might be pylons, others don’t and they’re all poor casts, perhaps 3 or 4 might be salvageable for actual use, the rest might end up as scenery, they’d make neat expended or dud missiles embedded in mud or something at least.

All in all I’m disappointed with this model. There’s plenty of detail, it’s a great looking aircraft and the rules for it are pretty swish too, but there are too many issues on this particular model for me to consider this reasonable value for money given it’s cost me roughly $30AU to buy it and get it shipped over (with a couple of other models). And that’s the problem with FW, if you’re going to charge an arm and a leg for a product then you need to make sure you get it right, each and every time and they don’t. As a customer I feel shortchanged by this aircraft and I’ll be damned sure that on my next FW order I will mock assemble everything as soon as it arrives and if everything isn’t in reasonable order they’ll definitely be hearing from me.

I’d also urge anyone else out there seduced by FW’s detail or the variety they offer compared to regular GW plastics that you too check everything carefully as soon as it arrives. When FW gets things right it’s one of the best things in the hobby for me, they just don’t get it right often enough…